The Forgotten Idea - Leather Bow Protectors

These days pocket watches are relegated to the world of collectors and the few who think they are "cool" looking.  But over 80 years ago they were indispensable time tellers. You owned a good watch if you could and you would have that watch for decades.  In those times there was concern over making the watch last.

One of the most common parts you saw wear and age to the watch was the case.  This is where the "brassing" or "wear-through" could be seen but that was unavoidable unless you could afford solid gold, silver or nickel cases.  Obviously the nickel one were a cheap option but not if you wanted the gold look.  But with a solid gold watch you have the fact that gold is soft versus the chains you put on them.

Even gold filled cases had an issue of the gold wearing at the bow due to the swivel clasp on the chain.  Chains were silver, gold, gold field or steel.  No matter what though that swivel could rub the bow as you walked and when you put it in and out of your pocket.  There was a solution though, bow protectors.

I am not sure when they first were used.  I am sure though that the first ones would have been rather crude.  A piece of scrap thin leather that someone poked a hole in with a knife or nail. There is little history I can find on the idea or the protectors themselves.  They were leather and insignificant in looks so they would have been easily discarded like any old wrist watch band is these days.

After pocket watches fell out of favor and replaced by wristwatches they would have been relegated to drawers with the watches they use to carry.  Over time leather drys or rots depending on conditions.  After decades of pocket watches falling out of use the need died for bow protectors.

I have only 2 vintage examples of them as seen below.

They vary in design and I am always looking to find more examples.  But they differ from the braided leather pocket watch chains.  The leather strap/chain idea worked but if you had a nice chain, you wanted to show it off.  So the bow protector was a good option too protect the bow and wear that ornate chain.

For some people, like railroad workers, a watch was a needed tool of the trade.  It was not just something to look good but something of a precision tool.  You would not spend a large amount of money on a high quality tool and leave it to kick around.  They needed them to last and had a good amount of interest in protecting their investment.

These days, as I said earlier, the main users of pocket watches are collectors.  Again there is a need to protect your investment.  Some people have a "carry" watch which is of good quality but no worry about protecting its value as much.  Then you have collectors that will spend a good deal on a pocket watch.  While not a "carry" watch they would like to have the chance to carry it around and use it.

I thought about making some of the straps a few years ago but I am not a leather worker.  But after spending a good amount every time I wanted a hand made wristwatch strap I decided to try and make my own wristwatch bands.  I got good Horween leather, punches, wax thread, buckles, and all kinds of material together.  My first band was awful.

But I kept trying and I made a few good looking ones for once.  But in the process I had also bought some thinner softer leather to try as well.  Turned out the leather was not thick enough in my opinion to be of much use for a wristwatch band.  But then there was the pocket watch bow protector idea still hanging out there.  I ordered a few more tools and supplies and came up with what you see below.

They are American sourced leather.  I had only a choice of the 2 colors but that worked.  I started by cutting each fully by hand and then hand hammer punching the holes.  The ends were not regular and they still were not the best but after a bit I bought a hand punch and a new tool to get the ends found as they should be.  Added the metal eyelets lie in the antique on I have and am happy  the finished product.

With the idea of the Horween leather wristwatch bands there was excess leather from each band.  I decided to give it a try.  The leather is thicker and they are still a work in progress as the idea needs to evolve due to the thickness.  So far my feedback has been good that they are working but I may modify the design to be a bit longer and maybe a bit more narrow.  The ends need to accommodate smaller swivel clasps as well.  No everyone has a big 18s with a big bow and a heavy chain.  I may need to revisit the old ideas as a guide.  What I currently make is below.

The next phase starts soon.  I have had requests for black Horween that will be in soon.  I also want to expand the variety to some more exotic leathers so I have shark skin coming in as well.  All leather is American made and American sourced.  Like the great American pocket watches of the past, they should be an An american made product as well.

1886 14k Box Hinge Elgin BW Raymond 18 SIze

As I mentioned at the end of my last post, I went and picked up this beauty last weekend.  It was at my best coin shop source.  This is the same place I have bad some of my best finds and best prices.  I would never have suspected what was in this ugly old Swank box he had on his back counter.

The watch came to me as you see it.  The case covered in fine scratches, but nothing deep at least.

The case has the 14k Duber markings, aong with dirt and finger prints.

 When I say dirty I mean dirty.  There was so much around the inside of the case it made me wonder when it could have been last cleaned.

The dial was dirty as well.  All those specs of dirt and dust are a sign of many years of neglect.

The dial does have cracks but I am happy with the originality and lack of being messed with like so many around.  The hands are all original and fit the style of the watch just right.

The movement is a 15 jewel Adjusted 18 size Grade 27 lever set hunting case BW Raymond.  The nickle finish is beautiful, even under all that dust.

Once I started my cleaning I found out to what extent the dust and dirt has gotten to inside the watch.  These pictures show it very well.

With this level of dust and dirt I would suspect the watch has not been serviced in 30+ years.  The amazing thing is how much got into the watch even with a crystal in place.  So I went to work cleaning and oiling it.  I blew out the case with canned air. Polished it.  Cleaned the dial.  Cleaned the crystal. And.....

The case polished up very nicely and looks much better without the finger prints and dirt.

The movement cleaned up very nicely and the watch is running great now.

I love using the elginwatches.org website for researching elgin watches.  In this case it tells me that of grade 27 this is watch number 507 in the first run of the first year of this grade.  They made 45,000 of grade 27 but there is no way of knowing how many would have been put in a case this nice.  Box hinge cases are not cheap, even back then.

Over 45 dwt (2.25 ozt) of 14k gold is not cheap in any era.....well maybe the 1980's.  Still that is a lot of gold.  So that was my big find of last week.  I should have more showing up once I have paid this one off.

1932 WA Perry & Co Silver Watch and Band - From England Through eBay

Another watch came in the mail the other day this one is rather interesting.  While it is not some flawless mint condition high name vintage watch, it is very unique.  There are multiple names on the watch and this is not because it was pieced together my some mad watchmaker.  Back when it was made the Jeweler on the dial, now hard to read, WA Perry & Co Birmingham.  The watch model "Crusader" is still very visible.

The hands appear to be all original along with the dial.  It has escaped decades without any refinishing.  

The case is an ALD (A L Dennison) marked silver case.  I am very familiar with the Dennison marked cases as I spent time in the UK.  Every Waltham Traveller pocket watch there I saw had a Dennison case.  Many of the 9ct cases and sterling cases were ALD marked.  The hallmarks are for sterling, Birmingham, and the date letter H for 1932.  The hinge on it is still very good for an over 80 year old watch.

The movement is marked Adie-Marlys Watch Co.  From what I have found researching is that the Crusader was one of their brands.

Under the dial the movement is marked for FHF.  There is no ref number to identify it.

The movement is also marked Non-Magnetic Compensated 15 Rubies 2 Adj.  It still has a very nice gilt finish to it that is still bright.

Please stay tuned to my blog as I have a watch I will be getting on Saturday I will be posting about.  It is a solid 14K box hinged hunter case BW Raymond from 1886.  I also have a deal going on Saturday that may net me another  watches as well.

Self Supporting Collecting

I know I talked about this before but I figure after this much time and this many posts I should go back over it.  Unless you have a great job paying you lots of money and much of that is disposable you will always be limited in what you can buy.  Those higher end watches will always seem out of reach without lots and lots of saving.

So that is where the idea of using your knowledge and free time hunting down the good deals.  It becomes a challenge or a game then and makes things a bit more interesting.  You have to have some self control though because you can't keep them all.  If I could have kept all the watches I have had over the past 25 years I would have 500-600 watches by now.  Some amazing ones and some that are just flat out uninteresting.  But the trick is to keep in mind that there is better stuff out there and only keep the best of the best.  Keep what you feel belongs in a great collection.

That does mean you need to sell some good ones now and then to keep the cash flowing but better will come along.  The idea is simple though, just like any investing, buy low and sell high.  The better your profit margin the better chance you have of buying better and better watches.  Buy a $100 watch for $25 and now you have $90 (after fees) to buy the next one.  You find a $200 for the $90 you buy it and sell and now you have $190 to play with.

The idea is to have a rolling stock of watches for sale that you paid a small percent of the value for and a second group that is your personal collection.  You will come across great deals looking in the right places but you have to decide what goes, and that can be tough at times.  I have not only sold to buy more watches, I have sold to pay unexpected bills as well.  So in that way it can become a revenue stream as well but the more you take away from the watch buying and selling cycle it is setting you back.

The best buying locations are not often your best places to sell.  Ebay is the exception to the rule.  You could buy and sell there and profit but it takes lots of work and searching to find the right buy then list it right and then sell there.  Do it too soon and people researching will see the purchase for a low amount and think that is what the watch is worth.  That makes it a harder to sell watch on there.  I tend to like to reserve eBay as the place to buy for the collection and sell the local finds.

These were all local finds and most have moved on while others stay in the collection.

Traded for watch and cash...

In collection

Sold

For sale

Sold

Sold

Sold

Sold

Including this solid gold 16 size Waltham...  Sold

    

Silver Dial South Bend Grade 429 12 Size Pocket Watch

I picked up a rather unusual 12 size South Bend pocket watch a few weeks back.  I managed to pick it up in a lot and this one was the fixer.  In this instance the movement is not what makes this watch unusual but the dial. I never thought of it when I looked at it to begin with.  There were multiple issues to the watch when I got it.  A few rusted screws and a bad mainspring.  It was a risk but the balance was good.  

The dial to the watch is original but when I was cleaning it I found the back markings "Argent 935". 

The dial appears to have been made by a Swiss dial maker out of 935 silver for South Bend. The dial is in great shape for being made in 1923. 

The movement is a good quality 19 jewel 12 size grade 429 that was just cleaned and is in great running condition. 

The case has no brassing and from the way it looks...it is green gold filled.  

While cleaning I went ahead and replaced the crystal and of course the mainspring.  The watch is now very happily ticking along again instead of becoming a parts watch.